What are the specifications?
Single bevel broadheads:
- 100% stainless steel construction.
- Blade: 0.050″ thick 420 stainless steel, hardened to 50Rc.
- Ferrule: 416 stainless steel
- Dark finish on all parts to reduce glare
- Blade attached to ferrule via permanently bonded swage process.
- Single-bevel variable pitch cutting edge with 40 degree baseline.
- Lifetime Materials & Workmanship Guarantee, when purchased from KuduPoint or an authorized dealer.
- Manufactured entirely in USA with USA sourced materials
Standard #8-32 thread:
- Contour 100 Grain: Width: 1.07″ x Length 1.18″
- Contour 125 Grain: Width: 1.25″ x Length 1.40″
- Contour 150 Grain: Width: 1.38″ x Length 1.60″
Micro-shaft #6-40 thread for Easton Deep-Six:
- Micro Contour 100 Grain Width: 1.13″ x Length 1.20″
- Micro Contour 125 Grain Width: 1.28″ x Length 1.50″
- Micro Classic 100 Grain Width: 1.12″ x Length 1.30″
The measurements above are nominal and may vary slightly between manufacturing lots.
Weight: Nominal +/-1%
Axial runout: Minimal to no runout:
Our manufacturing and inspection processes insure that any head with excessive runout will be rejected. Our experience is that runout is almost always attributable to inferior or compromised inserts or damaged/miscut shafts.
What is the difference between the Classic model and the Contour model?
The short answer: Shape and color.
Longer answer: The materials and basic specifications are the same, but we like the shape better.
Our further refinement of production equipment allowed a continuous grind of the swept sides.
This improved shape allows us to maximize width and length and strength for a given weight. The
Contour model also has a refined ferrule-to-blade bond that yields a modest increase in pull-off
We do miss the laser art found on the Classics, replaced by imprinting the weight and “Kudu” on the ferrule.
How do you sharpen these blades?
Andy’s method: Treat it as you would your pocket knife – it is the same steel as found on many
popular knives! The method I have used for years is to use a small cylindrical diamond hone.
Bias the honing onto the edge by slightly tipping off the bevel angle or the back face. Use
very light pressure! It can help to color the bevel facet with a Sharpie marker. Make sure to rub
only on the edge, at as low an angle as possible, without touching the mark on the face of the
Erik’s method: Save your sharpening time for hunting. When you get a dull or dinged blade make
it a target blade and treat yourself to a new pack of blades with our super sharp factory edge!
(You already knew this is the best method didn’t you?)